We went into Kaua’i and Moloka’i alone, but we flew to Maui with the expectation of friends on island, so we ended up only camping on our final night there.
Our first night was spent at my friend Cameron’s apartment in Haiku, who I know from Portland. Her flatmate sucked, so the next two nights were at her boyfriend, Shane’s apartment who also had a friend visiting. We failed to take any photos of either place.
We then connected with our friend Lauren’s sister, Alice, who took us out to Hana where a friend of hers is the caretaker at a B & B. She didn’t have anyone coming in that night and it was pouring rain, so we were able to stay in one of the rooms.
We got back to Haiku to find out that sucktastic roommate and Cameron had a meltdown, so we went over to spend the night in Alice’s ROUND house!
For our final night on Maui, Cameron took us out to a beach where we could camp on the southwest shore.
We landed on Big Island (Hawai’i) with no real plans, so we decided to hitchhike up to Hawi on the NW corner of the island and got the local lowdown on where to stay. We received some major aloha from our next ride who went way out of her way and dropped us at the end of the road shortly before dusk.
Our camp spot was incredibly windy, but sunrise from the tent door was key.
After two nights in that incredible place, we put up our hammocks in a kiave forest next to Makuhona Beach where we met a sweet Quebecois couple who hung out at our fire and brought us COLD beer! The pleasure of a surprise cold craft beer after days of camping is indescribable.
The following day we packed it up and hitched all the way down to Kona.
One day in Kona was enough, so we hopped on a bus all the way to the other side of the island to a farm in Poho’iki.
The remainder of our time on island was with another Portland friend, Jess, who happened to be in town visiting her family at the same time as us.
We only spent two nights on O’ahu, both of which were at the Shark’s Cove Hostel on the North Shore (highly recommended).
The format of our blog posts will be changing a bit for now. We have been photographing almost all of the places we have slept since we arrived in Hawaii because sleeping locations are such a prominent part of the type of traveling we are doing, and many stories can spin off of such. The only problem is that those photos tend to take up precious photo space in a blog post where we’d prefer to show some sweet scenery, or whatever, especially when some places or days are simply not worth discussing. So for now we will make an intro post with photos of our sleeping arrangements, and how those impacted our trip. These will be followed by a more comprehensive post about our adventures.
So, without further ado, here is our Moloka‘i kip down.
We flew in late Saturday afternoon, so we grabbed our bike rentals and headed to a park a couple miles out of town. One Ali’i Park is an ok place to crash, with water, showers and bathrooms, but it’s just a flat area in a municipal park, so it is certainly not awesome. The wind was too insane to put up the hammocks, so we tented it. There was a large party going on in the pavilion with bad late-night karaoke, but we still managed to get some sleep.
The next day we biked out to the east end of the island. Sunday nights are volleyball nights at this guy Mike’s house and he let us set up in his yard. Actually, the guy who rented us our bikes volunteered the yard on his behalf.
Mike has spent the last several years turning the place from a barren yard next to the ocean into a productive garden. Brandy and I spent the moonlit evening sitting on Adirondack chairs staring at the stars over the sea and listening to the sounds of night in the tropics.
When the volleyball players had mostly dispersed, host included, there were still a few people hanging around a pickup drinking beers. I was hesitant to join because I was tired and felt a bit awkward with the situation, and there were a couple of obnoxiously drunk dudes speaking incoherently. I decided to hang in there a bit, and that decision would shape the rest of our incredible stay on Moloka’i.
The lovely John and Hannah were among the not incoherently drunk numbers and they suggested that we come by the next day and set up camp at their place. They are caretakers for some wealthy people who own a bunch of land and come out from time to time to “rough” it. We had to schlep up this steep, overgrown trail, but it eventually led us to this:
With a view of this:
We spent two nights in this relaxing spot, leaving only once in the intermediate day to go to the grocery store. We had been invited by another volleyballer, Jon, as opposed to John, to check out the organic farm where he was working. By this point we’d decided to stay on the east end of the island, which is about the opposite of what I’d planned, so we called him up to see if we could spend our final night there. Jonny set us up in the WWOOFer tents and put us to work chilling out in the outdoor kitchen.
Some other volleyballers and one of the farm owners, Stormy, showed up later to hang out for the evening and make an incredible dinner. Sometime before her son hacked her wrist open with a machete, Stormy decided the tents were unfit for the likes of us, and upgraded us to her beach house on the other side of the property set into this spooky mangrove forest.
The most awesome outdoor shower I’ve ever used is in the mangroves on the left. There is just a single simple wall blocking you from the yard, with the shower open to the rest of the forest. There are some nice flat stones on the ground and the shower head with actual hot water is attached to a large tree.
Thus we ended our final night in Moloka’i in the lap of luxury. Our plans for the “Friendly Isle” were very loose, and we ended up on the opposite end of the island than anticipated. We were treated to relaxing days surrounded by some achingly beautiful scenery and great people. Stay tuned for more stories of our adventures on Moloka’i and some sweet photos. We have an 18-hour train ride and we’re hoping to break the cycle of anti-productivity we’ve experienced on past train trips. Until then, be well my friends!